Delicate produce-led cooking near the Franco-Italian border
Mirazur leaps 17 places to rest tantalisingly close to the top 10 on the 2014 list, a reflection of the considerable evolution of Mauro Colagreco’s cuisine over the past few years. While other chefs often bring more involvement to their food as the years wear on, Colagreco has de-cluttered his approach: the intention here is to serve ingredients with as little adornment as possible to allow the quality of the produce to shine.
Located on the French-Italian border on the Côte d’Azur, Mirazur has access to the best of both countries’ produce. Seafood is central to Colagreco’s menus and fish is typically on the plate mere hours after leaving the water, but the restaurant’s dégustation or daily changing carte blanche menus also rely heavily on the restaurant’s organic garden.
A near-obsessive approach to ingredients saw the Argentine-born Colagreco become the first ever non-French chef to be named “revelation of the year” in the influential Gault Millau guide. The restaurant occupies a large 1950s building over three levels with spectacular sea views and an equally prime vista of the historic and very well-heeled town of Menton, nicknamed ‘la perle de la France’. With surrounds such as these, Colagreco rarely leaves the restaurant, a dedication to his location and his craft that now sees him join his mentors Alain Ducasse and Alain Passard at the top table of French chefs.