gastronomy •\ˌgas-ˈträ-nə-mē\• noun

1. the art and practice of choosing and preparing and eating good food
2. a particular style of cookery (as of a region)

The word gastronomy has appeared in 90 New York Times articles in the past year, including on March 13 in “He Won’t Upstage His Food” by Jeff Gordinier:

Mr. Wise placed a couple of peppercorn-crusted duck breasts into a frying pan. He melted a knob of butter, tipped the pan and used a spoon to baste the surface of the duck with the bubbling fat. “The long-lost art of the arroser,” Mr. Carmellini said wistfully, using the French term for the technique. “In 1992, everyone was cooking like that. And then everybody started putting everything in bags.”

He was referring to sous vide, the method of slow-cooking food by zipping it into plastic sacks and letting it sit for a long time in warm water. At Lafayette, those bags will be banned. Mr. Carmellini wants to stress more old-school methods of gastronomy.

“I’m going to try not to sous vide anything over there,” he said. “It takes some of the love out of cooking, for me. It takes out some of the fire and smells and caramelization. Some things are just better roasted in a pan.”


Comments are closed